nao. nao da nada. (despedida part 1)

In Mozambique, if you are throwing a party, you better have meat.

You don't talk about how fun the party was last weekend. How much you danced. How beautiful the bride was. You talk about how there were two whole cows killed! Two! Plus chickens.

I have been thinking about having a going away party for some time now. I had to. Parties in Mozambique, like the US, need careful planning and saving. I was not about to have some mediocre party. I wanted people to really enjoy it.

At first I talked with Melita about my options. I envisioned an American style bbq, complete with checkered tablecloths.

She was not about to have us eating corn on the cob at my going away party.

After a lot of thought, I decided to buy a pig. With the addition of a couple chickens and some fries, I was on my way to having a successful party.

The problem was, the pig set me back about half of what I had planned to spend on the whole party. There was no way I could provide drinks, bathtubs full of rice, and a nice bean stew as well.

So I met the tradition halfway. As I invited people, I explained that my party was going to be a pot luck. At first people just looked at me like I was crazy. I was inviting them to a party where they had to cook something and bring it? What is this crazy girl doing now.

But eventually, enough of my friends understood that I really just wanted a fun, laid back party with lots of food and dancing. They helped me spread the word.

I started inviting people. People were not too excited that it was a despedida, but when I told them we were killing a pig, their faces lit up. Everyone seemed worried about what I would eat (the Jewish vegetarian). I explained that hopefully they would bring something delicious to share with everyone.

I invited my closest friends and my family in Manjacaze. I didn't want the whole town coming, though I knew many people would hear about it and just show up. I invited twenty or so people. I planned for about fifty.

When I invited Papa Nhampule, my guard, he looked very concerned. I explained that I was just having a party to celebrate my two years here and I wanted all of my favorite people there, so he needed to be there with his wife. He just shook his head.

We are killing a pig! I explained.

He looked down. “Nao, nao da nada.” Why? I couldn't understand why this was so bad. He explained he wouldn't even want a party with a whole cow. He didn't want to go to my despedida. He didn't want me to go.

I laughed and told him I had to go. He laughed as well and assured me he would be there.